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Frequently Asked Questions

In order to help you save time, here is a list of some of the most common questions we are asked:
 

Where are the prices in dollars ?

Unfortunately our secure shopping basket only supports a single currency, in this case UK pounds. When you place an order, your credit card provider calculates the conversion rate at the time.

If you would like to get an up-to-date estimate of our prices in other currencies, there are many free online currency converters you can use, such as the Google Currency Converter.

 

How can I see the shipping costs ?

Postage to the UK is free.
If you would like to see the cost of shipping items overseas, simply add the products to your shopping basket, then use the Shipping Calculator at the bottom of the shopping basket page. You will need to provide the country and postcode, and sometimes the state or territory of the delivery address so that the system can make the calculation.

 


Is there a conversion chart for Appleton wool to DMC, Anchor or Paterna ?

Unfortunately there are not as many shades in the these ranges as there are in the Appleton wools. As a result, for the majority of our designs, it is not possible to give general conversions from Appleton to another range as one simply runs out of colours. However, in the revised edition of William Morris Needlepoint Beth has worked out Appleton to DMC conversions for all the designs in the book.

 


Where can I find a copy of the William Morris Needlepoint book ?
We are delighted to say that William Morris Needlepoint has been updated and reprinted. It now contains one extra design Artichoke 3 to go with the other two Artichokes. There are also some new historical reference pictures, as well as a conversion table for each design so that they may also be stitched in DMC stranded cottons (or floss).

Victorian Needlepoint has been renamed Arts and Crafts Needlepoint - it has the same designs, but much improved charts. You can order Beth's books directly from us.

 


Can I buy a charted version of a design, not a printed canvas ?
As a general rule, our kits are only sold in printed form. However some of our designs are available as charts in Beth Russell's three books and we can frequently provide the materials (wool, instructions, canvas, needle, chart) needed for a charted version This can sometimes take a little while as we do not always have the blank canvas in stock. The cost of this would be the same as for a printed version.

Please note that not all of the designs in our range have been charted (for instance, the Compton Rug does not exist in charted form). Please contact us before ordering.

 


Can I buy just the chart of a design ?
No, sadly we do not sell just the charts, only charted kits. You can find charts for many of the designs in Beth's books.

 


Can I buy just the printed canvas of a design without the wools ?
Should you wish to choose your own threads for a design you may buy a kit without wools for half the cost of the whole kit. It means you will receive the printed canvas, full instructions and needles.
Please contact us to find out how to order.

 


Why doesn't my chart match my printed canvas ?
Due to the way our canvas is woven, it is liable to stretch very slightly during the printing process. Whilst this effect is not generally noticeable on most designs, it can mean that charts and printed kits do not precisely match.

 


I want to extend the background. How much wool do I need ?
In order to calculate the number of hanks of background wool you need to cover an area, do the following:

First calculate the total area of your intended enlarged finished design. Simply do this by multiplying the desired new width by the new length (preferably in inches).

Next, work out the area of the standard design by multiplying the width and length that we give in the instructions/description of the kit.

Then subtract one from the other to give you the the total extra area that needs to be covered.
Divide the remaining figure by 36. This gives you the number of extra hanks of wool that you will need.

On average, a hank covers an area 6 inches by 6 inches or 36 sq inches. Each person varies in their use of wool and you can always calculate out your own consumption as you work. However 36 sq inches a hank is a good rule of thumb.

You can order extra hanks from the wool page. Please don't forget to specify which colour you want.

 


You show an old table frame in two of your books. Where can I buy it ?
The frame in question is an antique. We did after much trouble get it copied but the carpenter has since retired and sadly we have none left. All attempts to find another supplier have so far proved either too complicated or too expensive.

 


When should I use a frame ?
The use of a frame is very much a matter of personal preference. The advantages are that it is easier to get an even tension with a frame and you can use both hands, so probably stitch faster and more evenly. It is perhaps also easier to keep the work in shape (however you will almost certainly need to stretch or block it when finished).

The disadvantages are the extra work attaching the canvas to the frame (although we do now sell an Easy Frame which allows you to attach the canvas without having to sew it in place), the work is less easily transported as you can't roll it up and stick it in a bag and, with larger pieces, you will need to have more space to work in.

Most professional embroiderers, however, will use a frame.

 


What size frame do I need ?
The flat canvas (including the plain canvas around the design) when measured across the width, gives you the size of the frame that you need. The frame is measured by the length of the tapes on the rollers or in the case of the Easy Frame the length of the space between the two side bars.
To get a good tension it is important that the edges are not hemmed. The length of the canvas may be rolled around the rollers so that it is possible to reach the centre of the canvas when stitching. It is re-rolled when that part is stitched.

For very large pieces such as rugs it is possible to pin the part of the rug that you are working on over a smaller frame and in this case just roll the canvas out of the way to work. You'll need to move the work as you require. This means you do not have to have a very large frame set up. Naturally you cannot create a good tension by this method but you can work with both hands.

You can contact us to learn more about the frames we offer.

 


Why do you provide crewel wool in some kits and tapestry in another and sometimes both in one kit?
On 18 threads to the inch canvas, as used in the small miniatures and the three samplers (Love Is Enough, William Morris Sampler and Jasmine) tapestry wool is simply too thick to go through the holes - so two threads of crewel wool are used.

On 14 gauge canvas some stitchers find that tapestry wool is ideal but for others with a looser natural tension it is too thick. Thus we provide crewel wool so that you have the option of using two or three threads according to the tension of your stitching. Three threads of crewel wool are equivalent in thickness to one of tapestry wool. Tapestry wool is generally used for the 12 gauge canvas as it stitches smoothly on it. However – again it depends on the tension of the stitcher - it is sometimes too thin for large areas of plain background and it can be possible to see the canvas peeping through the finished stitching. When this is the case, or if the needlepoint is expected to have very hard wear such as on a chair seat, we suggest that you use 4 threads of crewel wool for the background only.

The larger rugs are worked in cross stitch with four threads of crewel wool to cover the canvas adequately and to ensure that it wears well.

 

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